Archive for the 'Me Motor & Story' Category
Cooler Than You – Portable Air Conditioner – MW 10:30

Introduction: The problem was that people in the dorms were getting too hot. The air conditioners in the dorms weren’t working well. Our job was to fix this by making a portable air conditioner that people could use in the dorms. 

Team members:

Kyle – Project manager

Ben – Builder

Ryan – Designer

Michael – Film


  • 1 30-Quart Styrofoam Cooler 17″ x 12″ x 14.38″
  • 2 motors at aprox. 84 rpm and 2900 rpm
  • 1 car vent
  • 2 9v batteries
  • Gear box set at 25:1 ratio
  • Wires
  • Hot Glue
  • Ice
  • Speed controller


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1. Cut holes into styrofoam cooler

2. Place vent and fan into cooler

3. Glue wires and gear box to cooler

4. Connect gear box to vent

5. Turn on and enjoy

[TEAM M.E.C.K Inc.] -Test Track- MW 10:30



The TEST Track is a two level platform that can be used to test the affects of different combinations of pulley ratios, motors speeds, and/or weights against time over a 36″ x 5″ testing area.  Motors,pulleys and batteries are mounted to the bottom portion of the track and a line/string is ran from the motors, to the end pulleys and back across the top of the testing area of the track to a starting zone. A single or dual switch can be mounted on the start end to close the battery circuits and kick on the motors. The motors are wired to reel in the string/line  pulling an object(s) from the starting side to the designated ending area of the track. To reset the test simply pull the object(s) back to the starting line.

Team Members:

    • Captain: Eddie
    • Project Managers: Mikey, Corey, Kirtsten
    • Reporter: All 


  • Track
    •  Length 56′ (bottom) 40″-56″ (top) 
    •  Height 3 1/2″
    • Width 5″
    • weight 1.2lbs
    • weight capacity 5 lbs max(stationary weight) 
  • Motor  (Tested)
    •  Voltage 8.2 -8.9v (max 12v)
    • RPM 4730-4950 (max 6600rpm)
    • torque -unknown-(max 34.43 g/cm)
    • mph 1.8 (max 2 mph with tested 1.5:1 pulley ratio)
    • velocity 32 in/sec pulling 39 gram
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Part List:

20″ x 28″ x 3/8″  Foam Board (1ea.)

36″x 3/8″ wooden square dowel rod (1 ea.)

3/16″x3″x24″ wooden base board

3/8″ x 1/2″ wooden spools (8 ea. small)

1/2″ x 5/8″ wooden spools (2 ea. medium)

3/4″x5/8 wooden spools(2 ea. large)

large pop cycle sticks (6 ea.)

8″ wood skewers (4 ea.)

4″x2″  Velcro strips

Canon DN26-T41N1B Motor (2 Ea. )

Werker 9v batteries (2 ea)

Hot Glue

small dia. soft plastic hose

2′ of 20 gauge Electrical wire


NOTE : This track is build in two halves then placed together to make entire track!!

  1. Cut foam Board into four 5″x28″ planks
  2. Cut wood dowel into twelve 3″ posts
  3. Place two foam boards together to create a 56″ bottom board(do not connect)
  4. From the center (where to two boards meet ) glue wood dowel posts 6″ apart  along the sides (3 pair per halve of track) 
  5. cut remaining two foam boards ( to desired length ) and glue to tops of wooden post
  6. (optional) glue 3″x4″ base board to start  side for added support for motors
  7. run wire through medium wooden spools and force wire into bottom foam board after the determined end of track.
  8.  Mount motors and batteries to base board if used at starting side of track. make sure to align motors where pulleys will be inline with end of track pulleys.
  9. Place small wood spool inline with motor and  end pulleys to works as guides/eyes for line.

Making motor pulley-

  1. take desired sized pull and glue 3/8 tubing into center hole
  2. after glue dries, line or string can be attached to pulley. ( recommend at least 9ft of line with 10 lb test rating

If you have any wiring or functional information that didn’t fit anywhere else, you might add it here.


  1. run line from motor pulley, through eyes ( if used) to end Pulley
  2. from end pulley pull line over top end of top track back to the starting area.
Switch and wiring
Wire battery to motor so that when powered the motors reel the string in. this is how objects are pulled from start to finish.
Team Members: Will Penner, Daniel Hughes, Tate Robertson, & Braden Tormey
Have you ever needed to cross a body of water? are you three inches tall? Well wait no more!
  • The team has decided that the boat we are making will be 16-24in long, 6-8 in wide- and 8-10 in tall. The paddles for the boat will be 8 inches initially.
  • Our team will measure the following quantitatively
    •  Displacement, estimated at 1.5 pounds
    • goal speed, 2 mph, we will be measuring by feet or bathtub lengths and will provide that measurement and miles per hour also.
    • rotations per minute of our paddles.
    • We want to build a Steamboat replica that is able to float and propel itself through the water.
    • Our team wants the boat to:
    •  float,
    •  propel itself forward(or backward),
    •  maintain a certain load amount,
    •  and have 2 functioning paddle wheels.
  • We will need
    • Styrofoam
    • wires
    • (2) motors
    • (1) 9v battery
    • (1) plank of wood 1x4x6
    • (4) metal screws
    • (2) 3in long 7/16th diameter dowel rods
    • power adjustment knob.
  • there are no cost limitations, all materials are provided.
  • The product needs to be large enough to fit the two motors mounted onto the wood plank inside of its hull, with the working end of the motors poking out of the sides.
  • The only power limitations we can see at the moment is the 9 volt battery and with preliminary testing we have decided that will be all of the power we need to have.
  • The only safety concern is the moving parts being a hazard.
  • In the real world a Riverboat or Steamboat needs to be reliable to an extent, however they are more for entertainment that transportation, so as a business, to succeed it would need to be very reliable.  
give a few sentences here offering a high-level description of your project. Embed your youtube video about your project here (see below for guidelines on creating the video) 


Team Members:

  • Captain: Will Penner
  • Project Manager: 
  • Reporter: All


Give updated specifications of your fun somethings. Probably
  • Displacement: 
  • Rotation Speed: 12.6 rps
  • Weight: 14.8 oz
  • Length: 16 in
  • Width:5 1/4 in
  • Width + Paddles: 9 in  
  • Total Height: 8 1/2 in 


We Built a Riverboat so we could cross bodies of water. it has a paddle wheel protruding from each side of the boat at the midway point.YouTube Preview Image

Team Members:

  • Captain- Will Penner
  • Project Manager- Tate Robertson, and Braden Tormey
  • Reporter-Daniel Hughes


  • Displacement: 8 oz
  • Rotation Speed: 12.6 rps
  • Weight: 14.8 oz
  • Length: 16 in
  • Width:5 1/4 in
  • Width + Paddles: 9 in  
  • Total Height: 8 1/2 in 
  • speed: .48 Nautical Miles per hour


  1. Gather batteries, Motor, voltage regulator, and wood block (Picture goes here later foo) 
  2. Wire one motor, and one voltage regulator together, then mount on block facing out. 
  3. do a second time for other motor 
  4. attack voltage regulator to wood block via screws on each side. (Do not screw into voltage regulator) 
  5. Open Inkscape
  6. draw a circle 
  7. add two rectangles (One going up and down, and another going left to right) 
  8. combine these shapes
  9. then copy six times
  10. draw a rectangle 6 x 5 in 
  11. place a smaller rectangle 1 x .5 in
  12. copy windows to create a “wall”
  13. copy the wall (x3) 
  14. using two of the copied walls, combine them to create a longer wall
  15. next open a new file 
  16. create a rectangle that is 20 ins long, and 7 ins wide
  17. us the rounding tool to make it into a track like shape
  18. copy this design five times
  19. one of the copies must be resized so that, when placed in a larger shape, there is a small ring
  20. cut out the shape  out of one of the larger shapes, then copy it three times for a total if four
  21. cut out shapes
  22. glue the large ovals together
  23. then glue the rings on top (This will make a railing) 
  24. cut out a middle section of the railing and glue in the block of wood
  25. print out your cabin area and glue it all together.
  26. glue the cabin onto your base with the wood block in place and the paddle wheels fastened, and making sure to punch holes for your dowel rod controls in the top of the cabin.
  27. double check batteries, and controls to make sure all is working.
  28. place in water and turn the knobs!


[Me Motor Drum -- Godlisen and JD] – MW 10:30


Our project, a motorized drum, went through several stages of evolution before it became the quirky masterpiece one can see today.  We started with the intention to build a stringed instrument that could be strummed using a motor and a guitar pick; however, we quickly realized that was not a viable option with the time we had.

We moved on to trying to build a rudimentary drum that could be played using switches.  

The original idea came as a continuation of my banjfoamulele.  We decided building a drum would be less complicated, so we ended up asking Tom for some advice on how to bring the vision to life.  As you can see, it was a resounding success (sort of).

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Team Members:

  • Godlisen Mosha
  • JD Lee


Unfortunately, the specifications are not exceptionally specific.  The apparatus could be built to any size or shape.

  • 1 rectangular wooden base
  • 1 metal can (more than one could be used in subsequent designs)
  • 2 9V batteries
  • several feet of coated wire (again, depending on size.  Ours used approximately 3 feet)
  • 5 popsicle sticks (3 normal-sized, and 2 larger ones)
  • 2 rubber bands
  • 2 small motors
  • tape
  • nails (enough to secure batteries and motors, as well as four to serve as conductor points
  • 7 assorted pieces of wood to act as braces or platforms for other parts
  • 2 screws to complete two circuits (with rubber insulation on top to protect the user from potential current)
  • Other assorted bits of hardware and glue to assemble the instrument


  1. Collect necessary items. 
  2. Attach platforms to the base, as well as attaching braces to support the can.
  3. Construct switches by drilling holes in popsicle sticks and placing rubber-topped screws through the freshly-drilled holes.
  4. Place motors on top of platforms, and secure with nails.  Drill holes into large popsicle sticks and attach to the spindle on the motors.
  5. Drill small holes in the base to allow wires to run through from the bottom.
  6. Attach wires to points on the motor, and run wires through the holes on the base.
  7. Place four nails into the base in pairs; each pair should be about a screw’s width apart.  
  8. Twist one wire around one nail in each pair.
  9. Attach the switches to the base so the screws fall between their respective pair of nails.
  10. Place batteries on the base and wire them up, attaching the loose wire from each motor to one of the battery wires.
  11. The other battery wires will attach to the unused nail in each pair.
  12. Place the can in between the braces and make sure the large popsicle stick drumsticks are atop the can.
  13. Depress the switches rhythmically to produce a cacophony.

Technical Information:

Tape is your friend.

[The POSse Final Project] – MW 10:30

Team Members:

Rubin, Steven, Nic, Jacob

We will build a stage with a curtain that raises to reveal two dancing pieces of poo, based on Rubin’s Foam Away project. The curtain and the “dancers” will be run by motors.

Original Specs:

Our product will be able spin the dancers at a variable speed; between 1 revolution per second and 4 revolutions per second. The dancers will be slowed down by using a single AAA battery per dancer. The curtain will rise, revealing the dancers. The curtain will be raised with a motor at 1 ft/second. The motor for the curtain will be slowed by using a single AAA battery, rather than the provided 9V. The stock motor can spin at up to 6600 RPM with 12V, we will slow it down by using a single 1.5V AAA battery, slowing it to approximately 825 RPM, but the motor will have about 3-5 oz of foam or cloth attached to it, giving us the correct speed.


  • We will need foam to build the dancers
  • 12″ of 5/8″ PVC pipe
  • 1/2″ Wooden dowel rods 12″ long
  • stacked foam for the stage; foam will be layered to build the base of the stage. 4 layers of .17″ blue foam for the base. 
  • 1ft^2 of cloth for the curtain
  • 3 DC Motors
  • 3 AAA batteries
  • 2 Speed controls

Most of the materials will be supplied materials or very cheap, we want to keep our cost to less than $10 per person.

Our stage will be less than 1ft by 1ft by 1ft, including all electronics and motors.

We will need 1 AAA battery per motor.

Engineering Design process

  • Need: To tell a story about a piece of poo named Ford, who falls in love with Miley Cyrus
  • End product need to be inexpensive, presentable, and appeal to the audience
  • Curtain opens and poo spins(dances), possibly lights
  • “dancers” will be operated by a motor on each dancer. The curtain will be raised by a separate motor which will be slowed by a gear.

The function of our product will be to entertain the audience with a fun show.

Actual Specs: 

  • 3 12″X12″ Foam sheets
  • 3 12″ Dowel Rods
  • 1 11″X12″ Curtain
  • 3 Motors
  • 1 9 Volt Battersy
  • 1 Variable Speed Control
  • Some wire
  • 5 Screws
  • 1 Paper Clip
  • 1 Gear Box at 5:1 Ratio
  • 1 Rubber Band 5″ unstretched


As the motor turns the gear box, the curtain rises revealing two…dancers that spin at variable speeds and directions Our video should give somewhat of a back-story on the dancers.


Give updated specifications of your fun somethings. Probably

  • you want to
  • list them
  • as
  • bullet
  • points


  1. Cut out the 3 base pieces of foam
  2. Hot glue them together
  3. Make your ‘dancers’
  4. Insert shaft of motor into bottom of dancer
  5. Cut holes for motors to hide in
  6. Wire motors in a series and connect to speed control
  7. Wire speed control to paper clip switch
  8. Wire battery to paper clip switch
  9. Glue gearbox to foam base
  10. Wire gearbox to paper clip switch on a different screw
  11. Poke 2 dowel rods into foam at desired location of curtain
  12. Glue curtain to last dowel rod
  13. Wire curtain rod loosely to other 2 rods. connect rubber band to curtain rod
  14. connect other end of rubber band to gearbox
  15. Use hot glue to make a track for the rubber band to sit in
  16. Insert ‘Better than Twilight’ sign with slit cut for rubber band to go through
  17. Enjoy!
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