Archive for the 'Final Project Report & Video' Category
The Mini Foosers: Foosball Table – MW


Aisha Foam/Construction/Aesthetics/Video
Jake Frame/Construction/Arduino
Tyler Construction/Materials
Waleed LEDs/Construction
Aymen LEDs/Construction

We created a miniature foosball table. Originally the idea of building a game was a concept we reflected upon, however we concluded with creating a foosball table. Not only did it seem accessible, but time-wise it was a bit more appropriate as a final project. YouTube Preview Image

We first developed our wood-based frame. Using a variety of skills the frame was able to be produced. From there, we had to make intricate and careful measurements in order to combine all the elements of the game together. (dowels, scoreboard, frame, etc.) Our scoreboards were wood based and we had foam attached to them as well. Holes were drilled within the wood so the LED’s we used fit snugly, and overall this gave the project a more well developed look. One scoreboard has blue LED’s, and the other had green. Basically.. blue vs. green. Arduinos gave the LED’s the power they received, and the buttons on each players side powered the scoreboard (1-10; at ten the scores reset.)

1 Wood Frame
2 Arduinos
2 scoreboard panels (wood/foam
Blue LEDS (wiring/coding)
Green LEDS (wiring/coding)
Roughly 3-4 2ft Dowel rods
2 buttons (wiring/coding/processing, etc)




Overall, we feel like our project turned out the way it was intended to be. The only thing that did not work the way we wanted it to was the resetting of the scoreboards when a player reached the 10 score mark. You would have to manually do so in order to start another game (by hitting the buttons until you reach 10.) If we spent a little bit more time with coding we probably would have been able to resolve the conflict. We also wanted to rely on photosensors within the nets to trigger responses on the scoreboards once the ping pong ball fell in, but that was a complicated matter we were not able to construct. Therefore, with the expansion of our project if given more time altogother, we probably would add a few different features to our project. Perhaps a fanfare appearing on the seven segments with sound/image using processing if a player was to win, or maybe even a way to retract the ball out of the nets without manually doing so.

Shocktastic Four Final Project Report & Video: Shocktastic Wubot – TR


team member contribution
Lance Loganbill   Arduino programmer
Samantha Dockery designer and built the Wubot
Jenny Pinkston Poster maker 
Caleb Warden Video maker/poster maker


We built a remote control Car/Wubot that is controlled by a accelerometer. Our car has an led on the bottom that you can turn on and off with a button. We also have a glow-n-dark board where you are able to drive on and draw a design using the led when it is turned on. 


List of parts we used.

  • 2 gear motors – 12v
  • 2 metal wheels of some sort
  • Arduino
  • Arduino shield 
  • Light aluminum for the body
  • Wires
  • 1 led
  • Accelerometer
  • Foam for the controller body
  • 7.4 volt rechargeable battery
  • Glow-n-dark paint
  • Board for the glow-n-dark paint
  • Switch
  • Rivets
  • Set screw to piece the body together
  • Twist ties
  • Glue

We built a remote control car/robot that would draw a glow-n-dark design. First, we put together the body of the car and attached the wheels. Then we mounted the arduino on top of the body with the arduino shield. Next, we wired each of the motors to the arduino shield, and wired the batteries to the motor shield as well. Then we wired the accelerometer to the arduino shield to help control where the robot/car would go using the X and Y axis. We then programmed the arduino and accelerometer, so when you tilt the accelerometer forward the car would move forward and so on. Now you are able to steer and move the car any way you want too. Next we wired a switch and a led to the arduino, and mounted the led to the bottom of the car so the led would light up the ground. We mounted  both the switch and the accelerometer to some foam for a sturdy controller. Now that your whole car/robot is assembled and working. Next paint a board with some glow-n-dark paint, and let it dry. Turn your light on and drive over the board and create some kind of design. After your done with your design, shut the lights off so you can see the design you created on the glow-n-dark board. 

Here is the code for the WUBOT! 




Here is a Schematic picture of our electrical wiring. 



  • Every thing on our project turned out pretty good. The code was a little difficult but I believe we figured it out. 
  • We could mess with the code to make the car move more efficient.
  • There could be a better way to solve this problem but as of right now I do not see another way to do that.Our way works out just fine.
  • One way we could expand our project is to make it wireless. So that way you don’t have to carry a cord around every where. 
WATER TANK Final Project Report & Video: [WATER TANK] – [TR]


team member contribution
Mustafa Albagshi  Programmer 
Hussam Muhamed Assistant to Engineer / Video Editor
Hamed Al Dhuraif Engineer
Matt Gillan Problem Solver / Report Writer 





This is the Video !!!!!!!!!

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Our team built a drainage system for a set of 3 water tanks that is designed to filter out dirty water.  


Materials Used:

- RIDGID AC11301 Water Pump

- 4 Tubaware Sterilite Clear

- Sensor Light


- String

- Wood shaped like cork

-Rubber Washer

-Dap Marine Sealant Silicone

-3 Plastic Hexscrew Drainage Joints

- Wires

-Plastic tube / hose

-Solid State 12 vdc 


-2 Funnels


 How To Build:

1. Take 1 clear Tupperware container and cut a hole at the bottom to fit the  shape of the water filter. (From now on I will refer to the Tupperware Containers as Tank.)

2. Insert the water filter and then seal it with the marine silicon sealant. Let it cure for 24 hours (This will be called Tank 3).

3. Get another Tank. We will call this Tank 1.

4. At the top of Tank 1 drill a hole to fit the shape of the Funnel.

5. At the bottom of Tank 1 drill a hole to fit the shape of the Hex Drainage Joint. (From now on I will use HDJ for Hex Drainage Joint).

6. Get another Tank. This will be called Tank 2.

7. Drill a hole at the top of Tank 2 to fit the HDJ.

8. Connect Tank 2 and Tank 1. 

9.  On the side of Tank 2 drill a hole to fit the funnel. 

10. Insert funnel

11. On the side of Tank 2 take a piece of Styrofoam and glue it on the outside. Do this to the opposite side you just placed the Styrofoam on.  

12. Make a hole to fit the laser on one side, and the sensor on the other. 

13. Glue the sensor and laser on.

14. Make sure that the laser will hit the sensor. 

15. Drill a hole at the bottom of Tank 2 and the top of Tank 3 to fit a HDJ.

16. Run a string through the HDJ.

17. Attach Tank 2 and Tank 3 together.

18. Put the rubber washer and cork through the string so that it will close Tank 2.

19. Drill a hole out the side of the top of Tank 2 so that the string can be attached to the servo

20. Tie the string onto the servo.

21. Get another Tank. We will call this Tank 4.

22. Drill a hole at the top of Tank 4 to fit the shape of the water pump.

23 Attach Tank 3 and Tank 4 together and Use the Marine Sealant to hold.

24. Drill a hole out of the side of Tank 4 so that a hose can run through it.

25. Drill a hole in Tank 1 at the top to fit a HDJ.

26. Insert HDJ into Tank 1.

27. Connect hose from the Water Pump in Tank 4 to the HDJ on Tank 1.

28. Make a base for the Water Distribution Model as you please. 

29. My group used wood and added a handle to the top of Tank 1

30. Use the Arduino and code to attach to necessary components.

31. Make sure to control the amount of water flow via the Water Pump by lower the amount of voltage received.

32. The laser will run off a “light on” and “light off” sequence.



1. Enter water into the side funnel on Tank 2.

2. Add Syrup to turn the clean water dirty through the side funnel.

3. The laser will be diffracted by the dirty water and the Arduino code will then read “light off”

4. “light off” will open up the gate via the servo connected to the string.

5. The water will then run into Tank 3.

6. The Pump will send it from Tank 3 up to Tank 1.

7. Tank 4 acts as an excess tank for any water the runs through the Water Pump.

8. The process repeats telling the gate to open and close when the water is dirty.








  • The project was a success. However the only major problem we ran into was getting the gates to close. I believe we needed more power in order to get the right amount of suction. If we were to expand this project we might try making a bigger scale model. 
  • There are different ways you could use this model, but the main idea is having water moving from Tank 1 to Tank 2 via a laser and light sensor. 
  • You could use this for a household water system and the laser knows when to switch out the tank. 
  • Another idea I had was to put different water colors into each tank. Then you would time synchronize the tanks to switch at the right time. This would cause a water show to continually move from tank to tank color by color. 
  • You could also use this as a juice machine. The laser would be able to tell when the water would be too frozen or to concentrated so it needs to switch, or turn on, and stir the tanks.
  • After building the project we’ve came to the conclusion that in order to be more precise and effective we should try and use different types of lasers such as green lasers. Each type of laser has its own strength, therefore its important to be as accurate as possible.
Audioheads Final Project Report & Video: Song Trainer – TR


team member contribution
Tim Eichler Box assembly, programming
Evan Wessle Box assembly, programming
Sienna Jones purchase materials, blog post
Connor Park video report


The Song Trainer 2.0 is a game that tests the skills of of how well someone can control the pitch of their vocal chords.


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First, you press the start button and the computer will play a part of the song you need to sing/hum back. The Song Trainer 2.0 will rate how well you kept the pitch of the song by scoring you out of five. If you get better than a 60%, you get to move on to the next level. If you make it to the end, you win! Congrats!

We bought a project box and drilled holes into it: Five holes for the orange rating LED’s, Two holes for the red and green start/stop LED’s, and one for the START button.


  • The project box and LED’s fit together and made a very good combination. We had problems getting the processing to work with the LED’s and sound.

Program Codes


Pd extended code: pitch-detector-(1)

Processing code: singing_songing

Arduino code: Finalprojectarduino

Austin, Alex, Nick, Andrew Final Project Report: !Jam Session! – TR Section


team member contribution
Alex Shoemaker Arduino Hardware
Nick Jackson Software Programming
Andrew Blick Purchasing Materials/Helping create hardware
Austin Haase

Video Report/Blog Post



It’s a lot like a game of Simon for two players. One person enters a combination using four buttons and the combination is read by Processing. The second player is then asked to then play the “pitch.” Pure Data reads the “pitch” while Processing is running. The “pitch” is identified and sent back to the Arduino. The Arduino then tells if the notes were played correctly using red and green LED’s. Then player 1 is asked to start again, and it repeats. 


Arduino Kit


6 LEDs

4 Buttons


*Code attached at the bottom*



  • One thing that we really should have done is make sure we all had the specific programs on each of our computers, because at he convention, when Nick left, we weren’t able to  keep our project function-able.  
  • Other than that our project went very smoothly
(All code below must run simultaneously for it to function properly)
pitchdetector (Pure Data)
pitchdetector2 (Processing)
combine2 (Arduino)
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[Group Name] Final Project Report & Video: Squirrel Trap- TR Section


team member contribution
Jake Built trap, Coding, wiring,
Peyton LED Light board, wiring, soddering
Imo Poster, wiring
Susan Video, Poster, soddering, wiring


Video:Final movie Final

Our group decided to build a Squirrel/rabbit trap. We decided to build this because we had no idea what to do and Tate threw out raccoon trap and we went with it.



On our trap the door is pulled up by a motor that releases when the sensor is activated. A circle of LEDs will come on when the door is down.  




General comments to consider when writing this report:

Camp Ivanhoe : Robotic Etch a Sketch – TR

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Here’s a version without music:


team member contribution
Miranda Myer Poster, helped out on the project
Kori Dacosta Project Leader
Emmanuel Perez Video, helped out on project
Chase Pote Report, helped out on the project


Our group constructed a robotic etch a sketch. At first we wanted to construct a game similar to the claw game that picks up stuffed animals, but decided to build the robotic etch a sketch to avoid the complications and motion in the z-axis.



-Motor shield

-Two stepper motors

-Threaded Rod

-Smooth Rod


-Acrylic plastic


The corners were designed using google sketch up, printed off with a 3-D printer, then we used threaded rods to construct the frame. After that we used laser cutter to cut the mounts for the motors and drawing pad. To be able to move the motor and parts along the tracks, we use a pulley system.



  • If we had more time, we could have done something a little more complex and something bigger. For example, we could have constructed something similar to the claw game that picks up stuffed animals, we also thought about building something similar to a CNC machine or maker bot but that is interactive and still mildly complex.
Fixalots Final Project Report: SR-10 Cooling – MW


team member contribution
Alex Mankins Coding 
Harrison Luginbill-Ruder Team lead, Video, Writing Reports 
Brent Wilson Created Fan Mount 
Levi Grove Made LED Screen 


This project was thought of and created in the hopes of solving an overheating problem on one of Wichita States’ Formula Race car. It works by combing an Arduino with a temp sensor and a set of fans that the Arduino controls based on the temperature   

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Our cooling device was devices to solve a current problem with overheating on a race car. At first we were a little lost on what else to add to this project besides the fans and the Arduino, then we thought that we should add some sort of screen that could easily display the current coolant temperature. First we started with the Arduino and the temperature sensor and wrote the code to that would allow the Arduino to read the current temperature. The next phase was to add the fans that would provide the cooling power to bring the coolant temps back into the thresh-hold of the proper coolant temperatures. For display purposes we built a stand for the fans that holds them up and show that the fans would turn on based on temps. The fans we used for the display were just 2 old 90mm computer fans.   

The code is a work in progress at this point in time. 




  • What worked about your project? What didn’t work? What would you do differently? 
  • A better way to build this project would to be using higher quality materials that may have been more efficient and have higher ascetics. From our point of view there is no other way to fix this problem would be to buy a system off of the market. 
  • We might try to add different controls to the Arduino that could control other things that are on the car to allow for changes on the fly. 
Final Project Report: Christmas Light House – MW


team member contribution
Dalton Ediger Soldering, Wiring, Built House
Grant Bechtel Soldering, Wiring
Austin Phillips Painting, Wiring Design
Alex Pierpoint Decorating




We made a small house that has 200 LED lights, that look like Christmas lights, that played to music. We built upon an old project of a foam house and ran with it.  


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We took a 12 inch tall house and stuffed 200 LED lights two arduinos in to it. We used a 12 volt power supply to power the LEDs and then programmed the arduinos to control FETs at the lights grounds to control their brightness. the wiring was fairly straight foreword but there just was a lot of it. To build the actual house we took the old house and made a new base and cut out a front yard, fence and a roof. then we put them together and added fake trees and grass and then made shingles out of sand paper. Then we pushed the LEDs through the foam and soldered them inside the house.   

















The project functioned just as designed.  The 200 LEDs flashed according to the 14 band sound spectrum just as designed.  While testing the project we discovered that it had an overheating problem.  To correct this we added a cooling fan to the back of the house which fixed the problem.  If we could do the project over again we would simplify and organize the wiring more, order LEDs sooner, and use higher capacity resistors to eliminate the heat problem.  If we could expand our project we would build the rest of the neighborhood around the house.

[Osmosis] Final Project Report & Video: [Aquifer Depletion Game] – [MW&TR]

Team Members:

team member contribution
Jason Counter Code and Construction
Caitlin Atterberry Visual, Video, and Project Design
Ernesto Cisneros Everything with the pumps
Austin Tillotson Mechanical work, misc.


The Aquifer Depletion Game is a touch screen (maybe) game with an interface created in Processing, which talks to the Arduino and tells our two pumps whether to pump water into the “aquifer” or out of it, based on your answers to the game questions. We built this as a preface for the EWB/Spirit AeroSystems Reverse Osmosis Exhibit that will be started next year.


Car Battery
2 Windshield Washer pumps
4 Tubes (Each pump comes with 1 only)
1 Cheese Ball Container (empty)
1 Water Bottle (empty)
1  Slab of Styrofoam
2 Aluminum Plates
Arduino / plenty of wires
4 Resistors (2 10k, 2 Green, Blue, Yellow, Gold)
Touch Screen Android Tablet (MAYBE)
Glitter Glue.. / Other Decorative Equipment
Long Screws & Nuts that fit the Screws.

Functional Description: The user will answer questions based on their knowledge of the Aquifer that supplies Kansas with 40% of it’s water. Based on each answer, the model aquifer’s water level will rise or drop depending on if the answer was right or wrong. The goal of the game is to get the water level in the green zone. Once the water reaches the red zone, the user loses the game.

Technical Description: Processing was used to create the interactive part of the game. There are multiple questions with two answers and each answer will directly effect the two pumps connected to the arduino. The right answer will pump water into the model aquifer and the wrong answer will pump water out. The arduino code was relatively simple. We had to use a FET in order to provide enough power to turn on the pumps. A car battery is our power source. The processing code was a little more complicated but still pretty easy. We used a slab of foam, fitted on top of the container, as a base for the electronics. An earlier version of the model had the FETs attached to  copper boards, which were also attached to the back of the pumps, so they could hang over the side of the containers. We fried many electronics in the process of making this project.

Clickies:  (Still some tweaking to do here. Will be totally finished Sat, but works as is)

Aquifer_Depletion_Game – Processing || Depletion_Game – Arduino

Step by Step:
1. Locate all materials needed
2. Run the Arduino code (As a precaution always run this code before connecting the the pumps to the battery. If the pumps run without input from the game.. something went wrong)
3. Cut a hole in the styrofoam roughly the size of the opening on the container.
4. Fit the foam base on to the top of the container.
5. Drill (or stab) SMALL holes into the foam for the screws to secure the electronics.
6. Place the Arduino and both pumps where the holes are and push the screws through them, all the way through the foam, then secure the other side of the screw with a nut.
7. Drill a hole similar to the one on the top section of the FETs in the center of each aluminum plate, drill the holes so that, once placed, the pins on the FET will stick out past the edge of the plate.
8. Put a screw the the FET and the plate and secure it to the bottom of the base the same as the other electronics (Which were on the TOP of the base). Do this for both FETs.
9. From the front of each FET connect the black wire from the pump to the right pin of its respective FET.
10. Connect a THICK wire from the middle pin of each FET to ground on the battery. Also connect one of the ground pins on the Arduino to ground on the battery (Wire thickness doesn’t matter).
11. Connect the left pin (on the FET) of the pump that draws water from the large container (If in doubt, consult the diagram) to a 10k resistor connected to pin 4 on the Arduino. Connect the left pin of the other FET to another 10k resistor connected to pin 2.
12. Attach a Green/Blue/Yellow/Gold Resistor to the left and right pins of both FETs
13. Make sure the Arduino code is loaded, then connect the positive cords on the pumps to the positive side of the battery.
14. connect the tubes to the pumps (if in doubt, consult the diagram) and put the IN tube for pump 2 and the OUT tube for pump 1 in the smaller bottle.
15. Add Water
16. Load Processing code and play!


Schematic || Diagram


  • Overal, our project went as planned.
  • We had to change a few little things here and there from our proposal.
  • We had a few mishaps with a pump going out and the programs malfunctioning, but that was Toms Ernestos our fault.
  • The project was a lot of fun!
  • I recommend re-creating this project. It will teach you a lot about processing and arduino as well as wiring, and such!
  • Loads of thanks to Tom and John. This wouldn’t of happened without them.
  • Ernesto sucks at soldering.  Caitlin’s really good at un-soldering. And apparently not at spelling.
  • The poster was made before the v.2 was created. Some of the pictures on there are from v.1, as well as the list of materials. (DOOOOH)


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